They have been here for a few months now and yesterday they decided to swarm on the outside of their chosen hive home here in my yard. I hope they are all fine, they look alright
Swarm management
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| Why are they outside now? |
During the first year of a queen's life the colony has little
incentive to swarm, unless the hive is very crowded. During her second
spring, however, she seems to be programmed to swarm. Without
beekeeper
"swarm management" in the second year, the hive will cast a "prime
swarm" and may cast one to five "after swarms." The old queen will go
with the prime swarm, and other swarms will be accompanied by
virgin queens.
It is considered good practice in
beekeeping
to reduce swarming as much as possible using several techniques.
Allowing this form of reproduction often results in the loss of the more
vigorous division. The remaining colony may be so depleted and set back
due to the brood cycle interruption that it is unproductive for the
season. Beekeepers control swarming prior to the natural swarm time.
They may remove
frames of
brood comb making
nucs (nucleus or starter colonies) or by shaking package bees (usually for sale) from hives.
Swarming is to the beekeeper what losing all of his calves is to a
cattleman. Beekeepers try to anticipate swarming and assist the bees to
reproduce in a more controlled fashion by "splitting hives" or making "
nucs." This saves the "calves" and keeps the "cow" in condition to accomplish some work.
Old fashioned
laissez-faire
beekeeping depended upon the capture of swarms to replenish beekeeper
colonies and early swarms were especially valued. An old English poem
says:
- A swarm of bees in May is worth a load of hay;
- A swarm of bees in June is worth a silver spoon;
- A swarm of bees in July isn't worth a fly.
(Or possibly for the last line, "A swarm of bees in July, let them fly.")
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| They really know I love them and they are safe here! |
There are various methods to capture a swarm. When the swarm first
settles down and forms a cluster it is relatively easy to capture the
swarm in a suitable box or
nuc. There are also swarm traps with
Nasonov pheromone
lures that can be used to attract swarms. One method that can be
employed on a sunny day when the swarm is located on a lower branch or
small tree is to put a white sheet under the swarm location.
A nuc box
is put on the sheet. The swarm is sprayed from the outside with a sugar
solution and then vigorously shaken off the branch. The main cluster,
hopefully including the queen, will fall onto the white sheet and the
bees will quickly go for the first dark entrance space in sight, which
is the opening of the nuc. An organized march toward the opening will
ensue and after 15 minutes the majority of bees will be inside the nuc.
This capture method does not work at night though.
If the swarm is too embroiled in its perch so it cannot be dropped into a box or sheet, a
skep can be suspended over it and gentle smoke used to "herd" the swarm into the skep.
Swarms may now be collected by a suction pump and the swarm will be
sucked into a box. This way is easy and few bees are lost and none
become angry.
Smoke is not recommended to calm a clustered swarm. Smoke will have
the opposite effect on a clustered swarm as many bees will become
agitated and fly about instead of settling down.
We watched them for ages and they looked happy enough although it had been very windy so perhaps this is why they are outside of their hive now. Merve said that I had accidentally created the perfect environment for a
bee swarm to come and find this place and make it home. He said well done Sister.
Images @ Eminpee Fotography
